It was great Burgundy that started me down this path so many years ago, and great Burgundy that keeps me going. The endless quest for that next “magic” bottle, or sometimes just the right bottle at the right time (which can be just as magic in its own right), is the force that drives me on and fills me with hope, energy and spirit.
Sometimes in the middle of the daily grind it’s easy to lose sight of the magic. Often when we are deepest into the grind, the lightning bolt arrives to fill us with inspiration and to reignite the flame. I admit that my pilot light had been on dim for a while when I arrived in Burgundy back at the beginning of June. Depressing news from all fronts, the economic woes affecting us and everyone I know in the business, a slow start in the vineyards here in the valley this spring – all conspired to make me feel less than inspired for the better part of the last six months or so.
And then one morning, in the space of two hours in the village of Chambolle-Musigny, the sun burst through once more. I had an appointment to taste at the venerable Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, holders of some of the most magnificent vineyard land in all of Burgundy. (Outside of DRC, I would argue that de Vogüé’s holdings are in fact the best in all of Burgundy.) A whopping 70% of the magnificent Musigny (17.5 acres, including the only Musigny Blanc.) The largest piece of Bonnes Mares. The best piece of les Amoureuses. Nice chunks of 1er Crus les Fuées and les Baudes (which go into the village wine.) And wonderful holdings at the village level as well. Every one of their vines lies within the boundaries of the tiny (only 444 acres) village of Chambolle-Musigny – home to the most graceful, perfumed, elegant, and refined Pinot Noir-based wines on the planet.
- View of the Church tower from the courtyard of de Vogüé
The de Vogüé wines are legendary and sought after around the world. They have in fact produced a number of my favorite wines of all time, including the legendary ’47 and ’49 Musigny. Perhaps only La Tâche and Romanée-Conti itself can surpass the greatness of Musigny, but with a gun to my head I would have to say that a great “Moose” is at the very pinnacle and in fact second to none. But we digress…
- Two Mags of ’47 Musigny
I was scheduled to taste with winemaker/enologist François Millet – who is often described as being “reserved, dry, introspective”. With that reputation in mind, I wasn’t expecting much lively discourse or fanfare. What I found, instead, was one of the most inspiring, fascinating, engaging and spark igniting gentlemen I’ve had the pleasure to meet. (Oh, and the wines did not suck, either.)
He did start out a tad on the dry side. But then something blossomed. Perhaps it was because he was happy to meet an American who was comfortable conversing in French (though his English is superb), or perhaps because I’m a winemaker who approaches things in a very similar manner to M. Millet, or maybe the stars were simply properly aligned that day – but I had an epiphany in the de Vogüé cellars that day with François.
That the wines were stunning is without question. Even in mid-malo, the 08s were showing a very special loveliness, with an uncommon length and finesse, and pure transparent minerality. My notes on the wines stop there, however (normally, I’m scribbling away with detailed notes on each wine, each barrel.) This time I found myself just enjoying listening to the wines, and listening to the very fascinating M. Millet.
- Musigny
That he’s a great winemaker who is blessed to be working with profound terroirs is without question. But perhaps he is actually more philosopher than winemaker. I’ve never tasted with anyone so deeply involved with his wines and terroirs at such a thoughtful, philosophical level. He doesn’t speak in “wine” terms per se. He talks about the differences between the aromas of morning flowers versus flowers that bloom in the afternoon, about fermentation being the poetry phase of the wine, the pre-soak being merely prose, about classic French literature and the ancient philosophers of Greece. To say that this man is deeply thoughtful is an understatement. But there’s also a sparkle in his eye, the soul of a poet, and a sense of delight and wonder that permeates his carefully measured words.
In all, in the space of those two hours in the de Vogüé cellars I refound my footing. Not that my passion has ever waned, more that I was inspired anew. I left Chambolle that day feeling I was back on the path, my path, once again. Un Grand Merci, François!
François Millet and the magnificent wines of Domaine de Vogüé will be the featured tasting event and seminar at this year’s IPNC (the International Pinot Noir Celebration) – held here in Oregon wine country every July. The top Pinot producers and pinot lovers from around the globe convene here every year for three glorious days under the Oregon sumer skies – I hope you get to join us this year and share in all the festivities! (And don’t miss Anne & Hervé Sigaut – the rising stars of Chambolle-Musigny, who will be here as one of the IPNC featured wineries this year!)
