Ça y est! Another one is in the books. The best wine event on the planet every year, bar none – the inimitable “Burgundy Friends Paulée” in the cellars of Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, hosted by my dear friend and former partner in crime at DDO, Véronique Drouhin.
In attendance this year, (in no particular order) Jean-Luc Pepin - Domaine de Vogüé, Alex Gamble, François de Nicolai – Domaine Chandon de Briailles, Pierre-Henry Gagey – Maison Jadot, Louis-Fabrice Latour – Maison Latour, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, Jean-Nicolas Meo - Meo-Camuzet, Marie-Christine Mugneret – Mugneret-Gibourg, Egon Muller, and Jean Trimbach – not to mention Allen Meadows and a plethora of the leading Burgundy collectors and aficionados of the world.
I have not missed this event ever. Every November, since 2003, my favorite day of the year is right here, surrounded by like-minded Burgundy maniacs and a literally a couple of hundred bottles of great grape juice.
Lunch is prepared each year by a different Michelin 3-star chef. This year it was Gérald Passedat of Le Petit Nice in Marseilles, with Philippe Augé of Burgundy’s Hostellerie Livernois manning the stoves for a couple of courses as well. To wet your appetite, the menu:
Leek & Celery Soup with poached Quail egg, followed by line-caught Sea Bass, a Lobster Navarin, Mushroom Ravioli with truffles, celery cream sauce and hazelnut oil, Pheasant stuffed with Foie Gras & Potatoes Millefeuille, Cheeses, and a Lime and Exotic Fruits Parfait. Oh yes, and chocolate truffles and other mignardises. Mon dieu – every bite was spot-on delicious – especially the Sea Bass and the Pheasant. Major, major yum.





But the real focus is the wines, of course, brought by all of the guests and shared freely with all. Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti stopped by to say he couldn’t stay, but he left us a bottle of ’65 Romanée-Conti. With that, we were sorry to see him go, but happy to have that interesting bottle in our future, to be sure.
I will list here the wines that crossed my end of the table over our 7-hour lunch, and I’m sure I missed at last half of the goodies that were going around today. I don’t care what I may have missed – what I had was a treasure trove of wines that could only happen at this very unique event. I’ll start with the whites:
’05 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile
’88 Chasssagne-Montrachet Ruchottes – Ramonet
’92 Chassagne-Montrachet Ruchottes – Ramonet
’96 Montrachet (Magnum) – Drouhin
’90 Meursault Perrières – Potel
’04 Montrachet – Marc Colin
’90 Chassagne-Montrachet les Vergers – Michel Niellon
’75 Montrachet – Fleurot
’93 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet – Sauzet
’78 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet – Sauzet
’89 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile
’00 Puligny-Montrachet Folatières – Drouhin
’90 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet – Sauzet
’49 Corton-Charlemagne – Thevenot
’94 Corton-Charlemagne – Jadot
’97 Chevalier Montrachet – Jadot
’76 Kabinett – Egon Muller
’76 Meursault Charmes – Roulot
’82 Meursault Sous le Bois – Ampeau
’66 Montrachet – Drouhin
’85 Chevaliers-Montrachet les Demoiselles – Jadot
’90 Meursault Perrières – Coche-Dury
’61 Corton-Charlemagne - Bouchard
’34 Batard Montrachet – Latour
’99 Montrachet – Drouhin
’76 Trimbach Clos St. Hune
’47 Chassagne-Montrachet – Misseray et Fils
’47 Meursault Goute d’Or – Misseray et Fils
And then the reds started coming…
’85 La Romanée – Bouchard
’06 Romanée St. Vivant – Dujac
’90 NSG Boudots – Meo-Camuzet
’64 Clos de la Roche – Rousseau
’00 Musigny – de Vogüè
’85 Clos de Beze – unknown
’96 Chambertin – Mortet
’96 Vosne-Romanée Petits Monts – Drouhin
’85 Echezeaux – Jayer-Gilles
’91 Romanée-St. Vivant – DRC
’49 Chambolle-Musigny – Camille Giroud
’59 Beaune Grèves – Drouhin
’80 Bonnes Mares – de Vogüè
’64 Vosne-Romanée les Suchots – Drouhin
’99 Vosne-Romanée Petits Monts Alex Gamble
’85 Vosne-Romanée Beaux Monts – Drouhin
’78 Corton – Meo-Camuzet
’79 Griotte Chambertin – Drouhin
’93 Griotte Chambertin – Ponsot
’66 Bonnes Mares – Drouhin
’53 Clos des Lambrays
’98 Chambolle Musigny Fuées – Mugnier
’78 Corton – Florent de Merode
’80 Chambolle-Musigny les Amoureuses – de Vogüé
’59 Romanée St. Vivant – Drouhin
’99 Vosne-Romanée les Malconsorts – Alex Gamble
’82 La Tâche
’64 Volnay – Pontiet-Ampeau
’76 Richebourg – Meo-Camuzet
’15 Nuits-St. Georges – unknown
’64 Clos de la Roche – Drouhin
’69 Pommard – Raoul Verdereau
’59 NSG les St. Georges – Gouges
’61 NSG les St. Georges – Faively
’55 Richebourg – Loiseau
’37 Richebourg – Latour
’99 Ruchottes Chambertin – Mugneret-Gibourg
’66 Clos de Bèze – Clair Dau
’29 Clos Vougeot – Jadot
’65 Romanée-Conti
’45 Musigny – de Vogüé (Drouhin bottling)
And then a few dessert wines, including –
’43 Chateau Climens
’55 Taylors vintage Port
’83 Ice Wine – Muller
Holy Shit! What else can I say? We do this every year, but it never ceases to amaze me and blow my mind. Alex Gamble, who was there for the first time this year, remarked “This is sick, and it’s only the first five minutes!” Exactly…
Out of all of this over-the-top extravagance, my wines of the day were the ’49 Corton-Charlemagne (amazingly pure, elegant and vibrant), the ’64 Rousseau Clos de la Roche, the ’76 Meo Richebourg, the ’29 Jadot Clos Vougeot, the ’45 de Vogüé Musigny (still one of my top 10 all-time faves), and the ’65 Romanée-Conti (a very difficult vintage – very little wine produced, most of it not very good, but the magic of the R-C terroir shines brightly through nonetheless.) Merci Aubert!

Véronique Drouhin with the '45 de Vogüé Moose

Before the storm...

... and some of the aftermath...

And more of the aftermath...
In all, a nice Monday lunch in Beaune! Let’s do it again next year…