Typically when I’m working in Burgundy and Champagne, I am posting daily with updates on all of the wines, meals and assorted adventures along the way. I am also typically on my own. This trip I was happy to be able to bring Martha & Pirrie along – and my usual late-night and early-morning writing sessions gave way to enjoying family time & some actual sleep and vacation – something I don’t normally experience while I’m on the road. It’s been a couple of weeks since the last entry, and it seems like there’s a lifetime worth of stuff to catch up on.

Martha & Pirrie in the Swiss Alps
First off, it was truly the trip of a lifetime. Two weeks of work and then two weeks of pure vacation and adventure. Champagne, Chablis, Burgundy, Munich, Verona, Montalcino, Siena, Florence, Pienza, Montepulciano, Grindelwald, Lausanne, Geneva, and now 39,000 feet over the Atlantic on the way home after a four week odyssey of epic food, wine and discovery. Not to mention all sorts of exciting new wrinkles to add to the Scott Paul program. (Kelly Karr, if you read this before I talk to you don’t freak out – we’re only adding two or three new producers, I promise!)

The Tuscan countryside - Photo Martha Wright
Somehow, among the seemingly endless 4-week feeding frenzy, I managed to get in most of my training runs – but am really looking forward to getting back to my beloved Leif Erikson trail in Portland’s Forest Park. The Portland Marathon is on October 9th, and I fully intend to be ready and to drag my butt over the 26.2 miles in some way shape or form. The best run of the trip was in the Swiss Alps – up and down the hills of Grindelwald and along the gorgeous river that roars across the valley floor at the base of the Eiger.

On the slopes above Grindelwald - Photo Martha Wright
This was my first visit to Switzerand, and I am now a huge fan – despite the insanely high prices for everything in the country. I can also forgive them for the mediocrity of most of their wines – as their hospitality, the natural beauty, the cheeses & sausages, not to mention the plumbing, are truly world-class. I was astonished to learn that an entry-level, non-local-language speaking dishwasher makes the minimum wage of about $3,500 per month. This explains why a scoop of ice cream is $6, a plate of pasta is $35, and a nice steak in a restaurant runs you about $55+. The Swiss also pay hardly any taxes – they apparently need all their pay just to afford the $5 donuts and $60 t-shirts we saw everywhere.

Watching the Paragliders in the Alps - Photo Martha Wright
Some random thoughts:
• The Italians seem even more obsessed than the French with passing any car that might have made the grave mistake of actually being in front of them. Even if they have nowhere to go once they’ve passed you, they MUST pass you – it seems like a national requirement.
• The French, Germans, Italians, Austrians and Swiss all do a remarkable job of accurately posting signs and pertinent information on all major roadways. I made it through five countries without a significant wrong turn, and was especially proud to have safely navigated my way out of the middle of Florence and back to Montalcino in thick traffic and total darkness late one night.
• The coolest public restrooms anywhere on the planet are in Switzerland. There was one 7,100 feet up a mountain that was so nice and so huge that I was tempted to move in. (And there’s a good restaurant right above it too – no reason to ever leave!) Apparently the Italians don’t often go to Switzerland, which is a shame as they could learn a trick or two.
• Bistecca alla Fiorentina, done well, may be my favorite beef preparation ever. I enjoyed three excellent versions – at Il Latini in Florence, Osteria Le Logge in Siena, and Ristorante Lamole near Greve. Not the best way to prepare for a marathon, I know, but it’s just so damned good! I found the beef in Italy much tastier than the vaunted Charolais beef in France.

• This is very hard for me to admit, being the hard-core Francophile that I am, but I think that on a daily basis one eats better in Tuscany than in France. Top-end French may indeed be better, but with the daily fare in Tuscany so good, who needs to go high end? Bistecca, Gnocchi and Gelato, oh my… (There’s a great book on this, “Au revoir to all that“ by Michael Steinberger, all about the decline of France as a culinary power – I highly recommend it, btw.)
• I’ve also enjoyed Tuscan wines much more than I expected to. I’m such a one-trick pony that I spend virtually all of my wine life immersed in Burgundy, Champagne and domestic Pinot. I have now been awakened to the joys of a great Brunello, among other delights. Experiencing the place, the culture, really helps me understand the wines. (Staying on the estate with a great producer also helps immensely.)

On the grounds of Villa le Prata in Montalcino
• We take it as a given that restaurants in the U.S. with a great view are only mediocre at best. Just the opposite in Italy, it seems. Poggio Antico and Bocco Divino in Montalcino and Lamole in Chianti Classico were not only three of the most dramatically beautiful settings I’ve ever seen – they were among the best meals of the trip as well. Restaurateurs in Malibu and all other waterfront settings across the States, please take note.

The view from dinner in Montalcino
We were fortunate to be in Tuscany round the time of the famous Palio – the centuries-old festival centered on a horse-race around the Piazza in the middle of Siena, a wonderfully cool medieval city just south of Florence. Each neighborhood in the city – called a “Contrada” – has an entrant in the race, and the winner gets bragging rights and gets to lord it over all the other contradas for the next year. It seems to be mostly a matter of luck, however – as both the jockey and horse for each contrada are selected in a random drawing. Some contradas apparently win much more often than others, however. This leads to a flurry of conspiracy theories and accusations of massive corruption – most of which are probably at least somewhat rooted in truth. (We witnessed one jockey pull his horse back out of the race in the first turn, just so he could savagely whip a competitor – another jockey, not the horse! We also saw the jockey in the lead after the first turn take a dubious “dive”, leading most locals to believe he was paid off to lose the race. These scenes were replayed in slow-motion from six angles about 125 times on TV that night, as the experts dissected every possible motive and meaning behind all the actions in the race. I’ve seen them do this for Italian soccer matches as well – it’s a national past-time to analyze every sporting event to death, and of course to debate every little nuance well in to the night.)

Pre-Palio parade thru the streets of Siena - Photo Martha Wright
The entire city is decked out in banners and flags and medieval costumes for days leading up to the event. Two days before the race they hold the drawing for the horses, and as many people pack the Piazza for that as they do for the race. Same goes for the drawing of the jockeys the next night. We were there for both of these events – and witnessed a huge fight break out between the “Tower” and “Goose” contradas (apparently long-time bitter rivals)– literally hundreds of men pummeling each other in the middle of the square. Apparently hundreds of thousands of Euros are passed around in payments or bribes to jockeys, not to mention the heavy betting on the race – leading to all the conspiracy and corruption theories, of course. Two days later it was the “Goose” contrada that emerged victorious in the race, and we saw the residents of the winning neighborhood walking around town the following day sucking on pacifiers and baby bottles – a custom that indicates “Now that we have won the Palio, we are born again”.

The Contrada flags flying in Siena
Some favorite meals from the trip:
• Il Latini in Florence. A mad-house, old-school joint that has no menu – they just bring plate after plate of amazing stuff. Platters of great Prosciutto and Melon. Bruschetta drowning in great tomatoes and olive oil and Chicken Liver Paté. Bean and Bulghur salad. Bistecca alla Fiorentina – enough to feed the Roman army. Good wine list, great service, great fun. Even with a reservation, it’s a zoo. Somehow they get everybody in (the place seems to have dozens of rooms sprawling all over an old Palazzo) – and once you’re at your table, the food just starts coming. Magic.
• Café de Paris in Geneva. Also a place with no menu. No need for one, as they serve only one dish – rib-eye steak and fries, with a green salad. The steak comes smothered in butter-garlic sauce, grilled to perfection. The frites are crisp and salty, and the salad is deliciously dressed. Crap wine list, but the meal is divine. Would eat there every day if I lived in Geneva.
• Ristorante Lamole in Greve. Way way way up a the top of the mountain, with a jaw-droppingly stunning view over all of Chianti Classico. Fabulous service. The best antipasti anywhere. Genius pastas and grilled meats. A few glasses of the house Chianti Classico Riserva. Heaven.

Antipasti at Lamole - Photo Martha Wright
• Poggio Antico in Montalcino. This world-class Brunello di Montalcino producer also has an amazing restaurant on the estate. The fresh breads and pastas were the best I’ve had – creative, simple, and singing with flavor. A true standout. We went for lunch – would love to return for the full dinner experience one day.

Ravioli with fresh Peas at Poggio Antico - Photo Martha Wright
More random thoughts:
• German television is a riot. I don’t understand the language – which may make it funnier – but it is a riot nonetheless. Now I get why SNL parodied so many German shows over the years – this stuff is whack!
• Most languages heard anywhere – in Geneva. On one ten minute tram ride we were likely to hear French, Italian, German, Dutch, Spanish, assorted African languages, Mandarin, Japanese, and English, of the American, British, Australian and Kiwi varieties. With everyone on their iPhones at once, it’s quite a cacophony.
• Best Gelato – a tie between the place in Verona on Via Mazzini and a place called “Why Not” in Montalcino – the best dark chocolate frozen concoctions ever. Honorable mention to the place in Siena that I could never find again if I tried…

Great Gelato in Verona
• Best food shops – Pienza. A tiny hill-town half way between Montalcino and Montepulciano, jammed full of the best cheese, salumi and chocolate shops we found anywhere. Dangerously good. If you can find Maglio chocolates anywhere – get them! Huge thanks to Portland wine retailer Darryl Joannides of Cork – A Bottle Shop for the recommendations on Pienza and tons of great wines and restaurants…

A cheese shop in Pienza - Martha Wright
• Most kid-friendly destination – Switzerland. Everywhere we went you could see that a lot of thought had gone into providing genuinely fun and interesting things for kids to do.
• Best value in all of Switzerland – the 6-Franc (about $8) grilled sausage on a roll on the main street in Lauterbrunnen.
• It is petrifying driving on the sections of the German Autobahn that have no speed limit. Scared the crap out of me to be doing 85-90MH and have people passing me doing twice that. I was afraid to get out of the slow lane, even to pass a truck. Felt like we could’ve been killed any second.
If you’ve never been, once in your life you should see the Swiss Alps. We’d never actually even thought of going – we were only there through the courtesy of Martha’s brother and sister-in-law, who’d invited us to join them for a week at a lovely chalet. We were based in the village of Grindelwald. The dramatic beauty is in a league of its own. It is so vast and so beautiful that at times we were sure it was a painted Hollywood backdrop, with the clusters of chalets on the hillsides little miniatures like you’d see in an architect’s model of a new development. The mountains are massive, the villages are incredibly charming, and the recreation is boundless.

My favorite was taking the gondola up to Grindelwald First, which is 7,100 feet up the south face of the mountain directly opposite the Eiger, From there we were strapped into harnesses on the “First Flieger” and soared on cables nearly a mile down the hill over the course of a 1,000 foot drop – exhilarating to say the least – the coolest “Zip-line” on the planet, surely. Then we hiked back up to First, and lunched on the deck at 7,100 feet on a crystal clear day with the 13,000-foot mountain peaks seemingly within arms reach. Pure magic. Then we took the gondola back down half way, where we picked up helmets and hi-tech scooters and rolled the rest of the way down the mountain – thanking god for great hand-brakes all the way, to be sure.

Summer-Tobogganing above Grindelwald - Photo Martha Wright
Final Random Thoughts:
• Place I’d most like to revisit and spend more time – Lausanne, Switzerland. A gorgeous city on the lakefront about an hour north of Geneva – with a very Portland-like spirit (kept expecting to see a “Keep Lausanne Weird” sticker any minute.
• Place I’m not in a rush to return to – Montepulciano. Certainly fine and charming, but I enjoyed the other Tuscan hill-towns a lot more.
• Most amazing cultural-historical experience – visiting the Palazzo Publico in Siena. The brilliant frescoes from the early 1300s are stunning – one of which is the first painting to ever depict something other than a religious subject.
• More fun than is allowed by law – showing a dozen of our clients around Burgundy for a week, sharing the richness of the culture, the people, the land and the wines that I love. Pure happiness.
• The best part of it all – sharing this amazing voyage with my family, who are the greatest travel partners ever, and who brought love and joy to each and every day.
I have lots of exciting news on the wine front – some new bottlings from our producers in Champagne that blew my mind, a new producer in the Beaujolais that will blow your mind, another Scott Paul Burgundy is on the drawing board, and there just may be a tall dark and handsome Italian or two in our near future as well. All the details here shortly once I’ve got all the deals wrapped up – stand by…