Last saturday in Carlton we invited everyone for a vertical tasting of our La Paulée Pinot Noir. It was exciting for us to open every vintage we’ve released of the La Paulée, and pour them side by side. The last time we opened them all at once was in the summer of 2006, so it had been a while, and there were of course a few new additions to the line-up as well.
From the first La Paulée in 2002 through the current-release 2008, I was quite happy with all of them, and thought they were each a good representation of what the individual vintage had given us. That makes me very happy, as the goal of the La Paulée bottling is to present the best overall expression of the vintage, using fruit from a number of our different vineyards to come up with the most-balanced blend. Here then, my quick notes on each of the wines –
2002 – I was managing Domaine Drouhin Oregon at the time, and Véronique Drouhin graciously offered to sell me fruit from a really prime block of the DDO estate, a mix of own-rooted Pommard and Dijon clones planted in 1989 on the mid-slope below the winery. It was an excellent vintage in the valley, one of the best ever in fact, and the ’02 La Paulée was clearly the star of the day for me. It is everything I look for in mature Pinot – layers of secondary aromatics, soft, silky textures, a good reserve of primary fruit still in evidence, and a long, elegant finish. Sadly, there is no only one bottle left in our cellar. This is rockin’ good stuff. If you have any, drink now or over the next 2-3 years.
2003 – From Shea & Stoller fruit. The hottest year on record, and a vintage that produced a lot of over-the-top wines. I was happily surprised that this one was still pretty fresh and vibrant. Big fruit, bigger tannin than we normally see, but still pretty juicy and succulent. A bit too much for me, but nice in the contect of the vintage. Drink now and over the next 3-5 years.
2004 – From Shea, Stoller, Three Sisters & Ribbon Ridge. A cooler year with some rain, but the wines ended up better than expected at the time. Understated, nuanced, developing some nice secondary flavors, but nothing outstanding. Probably my least favorite of the flight. Drink now and over the next 3-5 years.

2005 - Shea, Stoller & Ribbon ridge fruit. A vintage that was not roundly praised at the time, but we always loved it. A vintage that favored elegance and finesse, and this one shows it in spades. Captivating aromatics, nicely integrated acidity, refined and pretty. Subtle, but very seductive. Love this wine! Drink now and over the next 5-7 years.
2006 – Ribbon Ridge, Momtazi, Stoller & Shea. Another hot year, but not as much as ’03. This is showing really well right now, with a deliciously rich mid-palate full of juicy fruit, nicely balanced, good length. It’s a very sexy, showy wine, sort of the stylistic opposite of the ’05, but yummy all the same. Has at least another 5-7 years of upside potential.
2007 – Maresh, Ribbon Ridge, Shea & Momtazi fruit. A cool and damp year that took a lot of grief for rains during harvest. After being trashed in the press, most critics backtracked and admitted they blew it, that in fact the good ‘07s were quite good indeed. Kelley & I have always loved this wine – it’s everything we’re about. Silky, pure, nice concentration, pretty red fruits, very nice length. Has a great life ahead of it to for another 5-10+ years.
2008 – Maresh, Ribbon Ridge & Momtazi. From the perfectly balanced vintage comes a beautiful wine, harmonious, rich, long, and still a baby right now. Can easily go another 10-15 years, as yummy as it is today. Red & Black fruits, succulent mid-palate, long and concentrated. Wow. Will ultimately be the best wine of the bunch, and should outperform the killer 2002 over time. Drink some and stash some, this one’s just getting better and better…
