Bonneau du Martray – Pernand-Vergelesses
Bonneau du Martray holds the distinction of being the one and only domaine in Burgundy to produce exclusively Grand Cru wines (as even DRC now produces and sells some 1er Cru from vintage to vintage.) Established in the wake of the French revolution at the end of the 1700s, the domaine owns a staggering 27.17 acres of the best part of the Corton hill, all in one contiguous parcel. While they have 3.7 acres of Corton Rouge on the lower portion of the slope, they are known around the world for their magnificent Corton-Charlemagne, perhaps the most powerful and long-lived of Burgundy’s Grand Cru whites.
The estate has belonged to the same aristocratic family since its inception, with Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière the current proprietor, having taken over from his father in 1994. They produce what is widely considered to be the most majestic example of Corton-Charlemagne, from vineyards that are believed to have been donated to the Saulieu church by King Charlemagne himself in the year 775. The vineyards have been farmed organically since 2000, with a move toward Biodynamics now underway.
Most of the vines were replanted in the 1950s and are now in their prime. Jean-Charles initiated a major geological study of the land in 1996, which revealed 9 different soil types on their property, As a result he now harvests and vinifies separately 15 different parcels of of white and two parcels of red, which the research had shown to have distinct characteristics due to their underlying geology.
All of the white is barrel fermented, with one-third being new each year. The wine stays in barrel for 11-12 months, and then is racked into stainless steel tanks for an additional 4-5 months on its fine lees prior to bottling. The wine has a well-earned reputation as one of Burgundy’s most long-lived whites, often blossoming to its fullest potential ten years or more after the vintage.
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Also available in our tasting room, and for shipment to Oregon & Washington addresses.
2008 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru $165 >>
Here the nose is noticeably riper than the ’07 version with a hint of exoticism to the citrus, pear and white peach suffused nose. The rich and extremely fresh middle weight plus flavors possess an impressive amount of dry extract as well as ample mineral influence on the austere and ultra pure finish that seems to go on and on. While its ’07 counterpart is perhaps a bit more classical in style with more underlying tension, the ’08 has a bit more material and like the ’07, is impeccably well balanced. While it will live for many years, it will probably come to its peak 8 to 10 years from now. (92-95)/2016+
2009 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru $169 >>
A fresh, ripe, elegant and quite floral nose also evidences hints of green apple, pear and mildly exotic yellow fruit aromas that are trimmed in discreet wood toast. The rich, full-bodied and mouth coating broad-shouldered flavors possess excellent concentration and power and finally culminate in an explosive and fantastically long if somewhat chewy finish. Impressive. (93-95)/2021+
