Chateau des Rontets
Perched high atop the Mâconnais village of Fuissé, Chateau des Rontets is a rarity among Burgundian domaines in that virtually all of their 15 acres are one walled-in vineyard, the magnificent Clos Varambon. The vineyard and modest chateau have been in the family of Claire Gazeau since 1850. Claire and her husband Fabio (who is Italian and originally from Milan) took over the estate in the late 90s and now live on the property with their children.
They are blessed with several parcels of very old vines, with several sections of the clos planted between 1910-1920. They produce three different cuvées of Pouilly-Fuissé each vintage – one from just the oldest vines, another from several different parcels planted from 1945-1975, and the third from a single parcel just outside the walls. Also outside of the clos and just down the road, they own 1.22 acres in Saint-Amour, with Gamay vines planted 1970. Saint-Amour is one of the most elegant of the prestigious Crus of Beaujoulais.
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2007 Saint-Amour $22 >>
Fabio produced a completely “natural” wine from their parcel of Saint-Amour in 2007. Only wild yeast conducted the fermentation, and no sulphur was added at any time in the winemaking process. No additions of any kind were made at any time. The wine was let to ferment naturally, and no punch-downs or pump-overs were done. A number of the top younger producers in Beaujolais have been finding great success with this approach – the utmost in purity, wine with the absolute minimum of intervention. There is a lovely fresh fruitiness to the nose, with silky berries and ripe cherries on the palate – a delicious expression of the lovely hills of Saint-Amour. “I found terrific quality here in ’07, indeed these are the the best wines I’ve ever seen from this domaine.” Allen Meadows, Burghound
2008 Pouilly-Fuissé - Clos Varambon $30 >>
A ripe and solidly layered nose features notes of green fruit, citrus and almost invisible wood that precedes energetic and beautifully detailed flavors that possess excellent finishing cut and persistence. I very much like the sense of underlying tension and if this can add depth with a year or two in bottle, my score will be seen as unduly conservative. 89Pts.
2008 Pouilly-Fuissé, Pierrefolle $36 >>
(from heavily granite-infused soil). A gentle hint of wood sets off ripe orchard fruit notes that also evidence a touch of exoticism that continues on the very fresh and solidly well concentrated medium-bodied flavors that also possess fine cut on the intense, racy and noticeably more complex finish. This should be quite good. (89-91)
2008 Pouilly-Fuissé, les Birbettes $40 >>
(from 80+ year old vines). Here too soft wood does not interfere with the elegant and complex nose of pear, white peach and citrus that includes lemon-lime hints that can also be found on the notably bigger and richer flavors brimming with dry extract and excellent finishing power and length. There is a distinct saline character to the flavor profile and this should be capable of rewarding 4 to 5 years of cellar time. (90-92)
2007 Puilly-Fuissé – Clos Varambon $30 >>
A delicate, pure and perfumed nose of white flower and pear that is both expressive and high-toned leads to detailed and attractively textured flavors supported by a subtle minerality and fine length. This is a wine of finesse and understatement. To enjoy young. 89 – BH
2007 Pouilly-Fuissé, Pierrefolle $36 >>
2007 Pouilly-Fuissé, Pierrefolle: (from heavily granite-infused soil). This is also delicate and pure but the white flower and citrus aromas are more restrained and cooler as they merge into detailed and beautifully textured middle weight flavors that display very fine detail and a subtle minerality on the very dry and impressively persistent finish. Lovely. 91/2011+
2007 Pouilly-Fuissé, Les Birbettes $40 >>
2007 Pouilly-Fuissé, Les Birbettes: (from 80+ year old vines). A mildly riper nose features aromas of orange zest, white and yellow orchard fruit, acacia blossom and lemon hints that carry over to the rich and full-bodied flavors trimmed in light wood that culminate in a racy and mineral suffused finish of superb length. This is still extremely young but it shouldn’t require more than 3 to 4 years to arrive at its peak and it should be an excellent wine when it arrives there. Recommended. 92/2012+





