Frédéric Gueguen — Chablis

Young Frédéric Gueguen is the son-in-law of Chablis star Jean-Marc Brocard, and he started his own domaine in 2003. He was fortunate to be able to purchase a collection of superbly situated old-vine parcels (dating to 1928), with lovely pieces of village-level Chablis as well as the 1er Crus Côte de Lechet, Fourchaume, and the magnificent l’Homme Mort, a 1er Cru that often surpasses many Grand Crus in quality.  As is traditional in Chablis, the wines are fermented and aged 100% in stainless steel – he uses absolutely no oak whatsoever. The wines are totally pure expressions of the unique and powerful terroirs of France’s most northerly still-wine grape growing region.

Fredéric Gueguen in his vineyardsin Chablis


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2009 Petit Chablis $20 >>

A ripe, expressive and attractively nuanced nose displays primarily citrus aromas cut with hints of stone that can also be found on the round, rich and plump flavors that finish quite dry. This is actually relatively fine for its level and if it can add depth, it should make for a lovely Petit Chablis with a few years of upside potential. (85-88)

2009 Chablis, Vieilles Vignes $25 >>

(from vines planted between 1926 and 1952). This is much less evolved, indeed the vestiges of the secondary fermentation are still present. The rich and powerful flavors possess real muscle and the mid-palate density is impressive as the abundant dry extract renders the acid spine almost invisible and adds to the textured mouth feel of the solidly long finish. A fine villages. (87-89)

2009 Chablis, Côte de Lechet 1er $35 >>

(from a .5 ha parcel). A mildly exotic nose of lemon, white peach and mango leads to relatively soft and round middle weight flavors that are delicious but do not possess the same energy and racy minerality that it typically does. To be sure, this is quite nice and certainly possesses fine persistence. (88-91)

2009 Chablis, Fourchaume 1er $38 >>

(from Fourchaume proper). This also displays some exoticism on the otherwise more typical green fruit and oyster shell aromas that give way to very rich, round and generous, even plump middle weight flavors that possess a bit of finishing sweetness. (88-90)

2009 Chablis, l'Homme Mort 1er $42 >>

Here the nose is similar to that of the Fourchaume but a bit less exotic and correspondingly fresher as well. There is unusually good richness and generosity to what are typically much leaner, more acidic and more mineral-driven flavors though those elements are certainly present. I like the overall sense of balance and the moderately dry finish is delicious and lingering. (89-91)

2008 Chablis Vieilles Vignes $24 >>

A classic nose of citrus, sea breeze, oyster shell and a touch of mineral reduction merges into rich flavors that possess ample amounts of dry extract and a mouth coating, complex and long finish.
Excellent quality at this level.