Michel Lafarge – Volnay

A spicy, ripe and admirably fresh nose that exhibits a mild exoticism leads to rich and solidly well concentrated flavors that are supported by firm acidity and excellent length for what this is. A fine Aligoté and if you like the variety, then this is one to check out. (86-88)/2013+

(from 85+ year old vines, also made from a 50/50 mix of pinot and gamay). While the aromas are similar to the regular PTG, here they’re slightly riper and a bit more complex as well with very fresh and vibrant middle weight flavors culminating in a moderately firmer and longer finish. It’s rare to find a PTG at this quality level. (86-88)/2013+

(from 40+ year old vines that were once classified as Volnay villages). A slightly more elegant nose is attractively fresh and expressive with pretty red berry fruit and warm earth aromas where the latter element can also be found on the detailed, rich and utterly delicious flavors that possess much better than average concentration and length for the appellation. Recommended. (86-88)/2013+

An ultra-elegant nose features beautiful raspberry, red currant and wet stone hints that are in keeping with the rich, silky and pure flavors that possess a lilting mouth feel that is very Volnay in character, all wrapped in a lacy, balanced and energetic finish. A classic Volnay of charm and grace. (88-91)/2015+

This is also ripe, pretty, ultra-pure and airy with a mix of red and blue pinot fruit with the hallmark stone nuances that complement perfectly the detailed, precise and intense medium-bodied flavors that display text book purity on the delicious, firm, complex and beautifully long finish. A terrific villages. (89-91)/2015+

(from Mitans proper, not l’Ormeau). As is usually the case, this is an exercise in finesse and understatement with a high-toned, cool and pure mineral-infused red pinot fruit nose that slides seamlessly into detailed, harmonious and mouth coating flavors that are very Volnay, all wrapped in a delicate, refined and mineral-driven finish. A classy and age-worthy effort that is decidedly Zen-like. (91-94)/2019+

(from 50+ year old vines; a monopole of the domaine). This is aromatically a bit less elegant than the Mitans but it is more complex with cool red and blue pinot fruit, violet, earth and stone nuances introducing attractively rich and equally pure middle weight flavors that exhibit real verve on the mouth coating and exceptionally persistent finish. As good as this is, for the first time that I can remember, it is not obviously better than the Mitans, at least not at this early point. As usual, this is built to age and will need 12 to 15 years to be at its best. (91-94)/2021+

(from 45+ year old vines that sit just above Champans). Here the nose is presently marked by noticeable reduction but it’s not so strong that the sheer complexity of the aromas cannot be appreciated. Moreover, this impressive depth continues onto the rich, full-bodied and very serious big-bodied flavors that ooze dry extract on the concentrated, intense and vibrant finish that seems to go on and on. I very much like the balance and while this is certainly extremely rich and ripe, there is absolutely no sense of heaviness or undue weightiness. This should be magnificent in time. (93-95)/2024+

(from a parcel measuring 7ouvrées, or around .3 ha of 40+ year old vines). This offers another dimension in aromatic breadth and depth with a kaleidoscopic range of aromas that are like fireworks in a glass. The rich, full- bodied and tautly muscular flavors brim with both dry extract and an almost pungent minerality that adds lift to the already energetic and palate staining finish. A classic Caillerets that should reward long-term aging. (92-95)/2024+

2008 Volnay:  An airy, cool and lacy nose that is very Volnay offers up notes of both red and blue pinot fruit plus nuances of warm earth and violets before introducing vibrant, detailed and delicious middle weight flavors that possess good focus. (86-89)/2013+

2008 Volnay Caillerets1er Cru:  (from a parcel measuring 7ouvrées, or around .3 ha of 40+ year old vines).  A superbly complex nose, indeed it’s close between this and the Clos des Chênes for which possesses the most aromatic complexity.  Red currant, plum, earth, spice and violet aromas marry into rich, intense and strikingly precise stone-driven medium-bodied flavors that display gorgeous purity of expression on the precise and tension filled finish that delivers excellent length.  (91-93)/2018+

2008 Volnay – Vendange Sélectionnées:  A much more restrained but more complex nose of dense red berry fruit trimmed in earth and wet stone nuances, both of which can also be found on the more concentrated, naturally sweet and delicious medium-bodied flavors that display firm but not aggressive tannins and good length. (87-89)/2015+

2008 Pommard Pézerolles 1er Cru:  (the Domaine’s smallest holding at only .14 ha with vines that are now 50+ years of age).  A strikingly fresh and highly complex nose is quite cool and restrained and only grudgingly offers up notes of red pinot fruit and mineral nuances that also characterize the racy, precise and driving middle weight flavors that culminate in a finish of beautiful length and impeccable balance.  As it typically does, this manages to combine power with finesse.  (90-92)/2016+

2008 Beaune, Aigrots 1er :  (from 40+ year old vines).  A very fresh and high-toned nose offers up notes of cherry, raspberry and red pinot fruit as well as stone hints that continue onto the equally fresh, vibrant, indeed even racy middle weight flavors that possess plenty of underlying tension on the long, linear and mineral-driven finish.  (89-91)/2015+

2008 Beaune, Grèves 1er:  (from 80+ year old vines).  A noticeably more elegant nose of ripe, refined and airy earthy red berry fruit and discreet spice and violet notes gives way to solidly well-detailed, supple and palate staining flavors blessed with
plenty of old vine sap that renders the moderately firm tannins almost invisible on the balanced finish.  (89-92)/2016+

2008 Volnay Mitans 1er Cru:  (from Mitans proper, not l’Ormeau).  Not surprisingly, this is aromatically more elegant and refined with its very cool and pure red pinot fruit, stone and plum fragrances that precede beautifully well detailed and tension-filled medium-bodied flavors that possess very fine tannins and perfect balance.  This should be lovely.  (90-92)/2016+

2008 Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs 1er Cru:  (from 50+ year old vines; a monopole of the domaine).  A nose of pure pinot and dissolved mineral notes complement to perfection the detailed and stone-driven medium-bodied flavors that possess fine volume and a gorgeously balanced finish.  The harmony here is Zen-like.  (91-93)/2018+