Domaine Violot-Guillemard — Pommard

Thierry Violot-Guillemard is Pommard’s master of finesse, and his deft touch extends throughout the range, including this “humble” Bourgogne, from a one-acre old-vine parcel below the village planted in 1936.

“Exceptionally fresh with mildly earthy red currant and violet aromas preceding the vibrant and solidly well-concentrated flavors that are underpinned by slightly firmer tannins on the balanced, long and utterly delicious finish. There is excellent tension and overall, this delivers outstanding quality for a regional wine. Recommended. 88/2015+”

(from vines planted in ’47). A soupçon of wood does not interfere with the transparency of the very fresh mineral-inflected red pinot fruit aromas that complement the equally fresh and energetic middle weight flavors that possess good mid-palate density and culminate in a racy, detailed and focused finish. Lovely and while this is not especially complex at present, the underlying material is such that it appears that more depth will develop. 90/2016+

(a monopole of the Domaine that once measured 11 ares but after the construction of a swimming pool, now measures only 9.81 ares or the equivalent of only one-quarter acre; the vines were planted in ‘47). This is also ultra-elegant, high-toned and admirably pure with essence of red pinot fruit trimmed in hints of underbrush merging seamlessly into detailed and lightly mineral-infused flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration and absolutely impeccable balance. An ageworthy Pommard of finesse and refinement. 92/2017+ A “SWEET-SPOT Selection

A pure and soft red berry fruit nose that is elegant, airy and solidly complex is trimmed in a judicious amount of wood. The suave, seductive and beautifully textured flavors coat the palate with dry extract that renders the otherwise firm tannic spine less prominent on the strikingly well-balanced finish. This is really quite classy and stylish and should make for a terrific Epenots in 10 to 12 years. Highly recommended. 93/2019+ A “SWEET-SPOT” Selection

(from a .5 ha parcel located at the bottom of Rugiens Haut). Soft wood notes allow the clear expression of slightly cooler and more elegant still mineral-inflected red pinot fruit aromas. The rich, detailed and stony medium weight plus flavors evidence a taut muscularity, fine power and excellent focus, all wrapped in a vibrant, palate staining and gorgeously persistent finish. This is a classic Rugiens of class and grace and one that should amply reward 12 to 15 years of cellar time. 93/2021+  A “SWEET-SPOT” Selection

(from a .18 ha parcel). Earth and spice notes add interest to the floral, red cherry and currant aromas that are cool and perfumed while complementing detailed and lilting, indeed there is a lacy quality to the middle weight flavors that culminate in a very supple finish that is finer but not more complex. Also worth a look. 89/2013+

(from a .20 ha parcel). This is also relatively elegant for its appellation with high- toned red pinot fruit liberally laced with soft soil undertones that merge into supple, round and focused medium-bodied flavors that possess a sappy mouth feel and a mild hint of austerity on the less refined but longer finish. 89/2014+

(from vines planted in ’47). Here the nose offers a small step up in overall elegance with a nicely nuanced aromatic profile of primarily red pinot fruit, minerals and a touch of underbrush that is followed by delicious, sweet and racy medium weight flavors that feature more finishing minerality and a fine sense of balance. I like the purity of expression and this is sufficiently forward that it could easily be enjoyed now. 90/2013+

(a monopole of the Domaine that once measured 11 ares but after the construction of a swimming pool, now measures only 9.81 ares or the equivalent of only one-quarter acre; the vines were planted in ‘47). This offers a noticeable step up in finesse and aromatic elegance with pretty and very pure earthy red raspberry and cherry notes that blend into naturally sweet, rich and delineated middle weight flavors that carry obvious finishing minerality and solid punch. This is really quite a nice effort as the balance is impeccable and the overall impression is a Pommard of finesse and understatement. 90/2013+

A reserved and relatively deeply pitched nose of warm earth, underbrush, red cherry fruit and subtle anise aromas introduces textured, pure and deliciously sweet medium full flavors that are supported by silky tannins and possess a wonderfully intense, complex and impressively long finish. Fine quality here. 91/2014+

(from a .5 ha parcel located at the bottom of Rugiens Haut). Like the Epenots, this is restrained and backward and it requires some aggressive swirling to release the beautifully fresh red and black berry fruit aromas that are cut with plenty of minerality before giving way to round, rich and delineated flavors that possess fine depth and serious length. This is denser than the Epenots and is a Rugiens of power and refinement. 92/2015+

(from a .7 ha parcel containing the Domaine’s oldest vines planted in ‘36). A more deeply pitched nose of red berries, warm iron-infused earth and crushed herb also displays a background hint of reduction so I would suggest decanting for 30 minutes first. The flavors by contrast are fresh and highly energetic…

“The barest touch of wood frames a beautifully elegant, airy and pure mineral and earth-inflected red berry fruit nose where the minerality also defines the rich, round and finely detailed medium full flavors that possess a naturally sweet and mouth coating finish. 89/2013+”

“(from a .5 ha parcel located at the bottom of Rugiens Haut). This is arguably the most elegant wine in the range and this too offers a gorgeously pure red pinot and mineral-infused nose that slide into sweet, delicious, tautly muscled and intensely minerally medium plus weight flavors that possess a lovely mouth coating textured on the deep, powerful and long finish. Definitely worth a look as this is a Rugiens of finesse. 91/2013+”