Friday lunch in Beaune…
Saturday, November 19th, 2011Once again, Véronique Drouhin’s Paulée has produced the greatest wine day of the year, going above and beyond the already lofty expectations I have for this amazing event. 42 of the world’s top Burgundy lovers and collectors, eight of Burgundy’s top vignerons, and a couple hundred magnificent bottles – all in the magical setting of the cellars of the kings of France, with a seven-course 3-Star meal to boot. Or you could just call it “Friday Lunch in Beaune”.

There is a chapter in my forthcoming book devoted to this Paulée. Having begun in 2003, yesterday was the 8th edition, and was certainly one of the best yet. In attendance this year were Burgundy stars Jean-Nicolas Meo of Meo-Camuzet, Marie-André and Marie-Christine Mugneret of Georges Mugneret, Etienne Grivot, Jean-Luc Pepin of Domaine de Vogüé, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, François de Nicolai of Chandon de Briailles, Egon Mueller from Germany (somebody’s got to bring the stickies!), and of course Véronique Drouhin of Burgundy and Oregon fame.
Also on hand were the Burghound himself Allen Meadows, Mme. Dominique Loiseau of the 3-star restaurant empire, legendary California winemaker Craig Williams, and a few nice bottles of wine.

OMG, the wines. I can only tell you about the ones that made it into my glass, as there were maybe a hundred or so more that never made it my way. No matter where you were sitting or what wines came one’s way, it was simply spectacular. Here, in order, are the bottles I was able to sample over the course of our 6-hour lunch –
(Bottles that were especially outstanding are highlighted)
’82 Corton-Charlemagne – Latour
’04 Batard Montrachet – Gagnard
’06 Chassagne Caillerets – Colin-Morey
’92 Puligny Pucelles – Leflaive
’90 Meursault Goutte d’Or – Buisson-Charles
’99 Batard Montrachet – Ramonet
’86 Montrachet – Drouhin
’93 Batard Montrachet – Pierre Morey
’88 Meursault Charmes – Lafon
’95 Meursault Perrières – Roulot
’61 Puligny Combettes – Sauzet
’85 Puligny Demoiselles – Jadot
’66 Montrachet – Drouhin
’78 Clos des Mouches – Drouhin
’84 Montrachet – Ramonet
’82 Montrachet – Drouhin
’03 Chevaliers Montrachet – Colin-Deleger
’89 Puligny Pucelles – Leflaive
’85 Montrachet – Delegrange-Bachelet
’34 Chevaliers Montrachet – Clerget-Buffet
’04 Montée de Tonnere – Raveneau
’96 Batard Montrachet – Drouhin
And then a few red wines –
’91 Latricières-Chambertin – LeRoy
’91 Musigny – de Vogüé
’92 Cros Parantoux – Meo-Camuzet
’64 Amoureuses – Ropiteau
’64 Grands Echezeaux – LeRoy
’55 Corton Grancy – Latour
’96 V-R Brulées – Liger-Belair
’97 V-R Beaux-Monts – Grivot
’78 Corton – Bonneau du Martray
’78 Bonnes Mares – de Vogüé
’85 Richebourg – Gros Frère et Soeur
’97 Echezeaux – Grivot
’07 G-C Cazetiers – Bruno Clair
’85 Chambolle – de Vogüé
’01 V-R Malconsorts – Cathiard
’89 NSG Murgers – Meo-Camuzet
’78 Pommard Rugiens – de Montille
’66 Corton Grancy – Latour
’69 Combettes – Dujac
’73 Bonnes Mares – de Vogüé
’93 Chambertin – Rousseau
’85 Chambertin – Rousseau
’70 Musigny – de Vogüé
’06 La Romanée – Liger-Belair
’61 Musigny – Drouhin
’85 Richebourg – Gros Frère et Soeur (2nd btl)
’78 Clos Vougeot – Roumier
’49 Volnay – Ponelle
’79 Corton Bressandes – Chandon de Briailles
’46 Corton Grancy – Latour
’34 Clos Vougeot – Bichot
’89 Clos Vougeot – Drouhin
’99 Clos Vougeot – Mugneret
’80 Richebourg – DRC
’62 Musigny – Bouchard
And then a few stickies –
’88 Mueller Berenauslese (don’t remember appellation)
’71 Mueller Trockenberenauslese (ditto)
’62 Climens
’25 Rivesaults (producer unknown)

And there are probably a few more I forgot to write down. Amazingly, my handwriting was still legible as we got down to the end of the day – but I did notice that my tasting notes got shorter and shorter, until they were mostly one-word grunts by the end!
If I had to pick a wine of the day of would be the ’61 Drouhin Musigny, simply as complete and magnificent as a wine can be. The ’85 Rousseau Chambertin and the ’92 Cros Parantoux were also magical. In the end, I am truly humbled by these great bottles, and fully know that I am one of the most fortunate guys around. God, I love my job! Now, more coffee, s’il vous plait…























