Le Pigeon
When I worked years ago for Chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, they shared with me their belief that you could tell a lot more about a chef by his or her salads than by the entrées. Lots of chefs can perfectly sear a scallop or make meat seem to melt, but, they contended, a really good chef can make a salad sing. And right now, I can’t get out of my mind the salad I ate last night at Le Pigeon – a head of romaine lightly charred on the grill with grilled onions and pine nuts and salt cod. I didn’t even see the salt cod so maybe it was melted into the dressing the way you do with anchovies in some dishes? Scott had brought a bottle of Philippe Chavy 2005 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru that was fantastic with the salad. My entrée was sliced duck breast with a creamy spinach, golden raisins, walnuts and garlicky croutons. I would never have thought of walnuts alongside the duck but it was all terrific. All in all, the best meal I’ve had in a while…one of those where you don’t want dessert and can barely stand to brush your teeth when you get home because your mouth is so content as it is.
Easter in Oregon Wine Country means one thing…the Davidson’s Easter Open House! Not sundresses, sunshine and sandals, the way it was where I grew up and hunted eggs, but drizzles, fleece and blunnies (aussie work boots), and barbequed oysters (we’ll bring the Chablis – it gives us an in with those tending the oysters on the grill). There is a mile long pot luck buffet brought together by people who love food and wine. The kids are distracted — led on a nature hike around the property — while the Easter bunny hops in to hide treats.
Here’s a pic of what Pirrie prepared for the bunny. As you can see from her post, she is a fan of a good Pain Bagnat. I’ll make one for her this week with some awesome Oregon tuna, good olive oil, black olives with provençal herbs, and hard-boiled eggs (so what if they’re pink or purple tinged?).
