November 21, 2007
So I’ve got about three hours between planes here at JFK in NYC – it’s been quite a safari already and I’m only half-way there! The strike was still in full effect this morning in France, so I had to drive to the airport in Paris rather than take the train. Because of the crazier than usual traffic (due to the strike) – it took almost 6 hours to drive what is normally a 3 1/2-hour jaunt. I’ve been up since 4am French time, and will hopefully reach PDX around midnight Portland time – just a little journey of 29 hours. To top it off, the A/C is out in the Delta teminal at JFK and it is hot and clammy in here. Help! At any rate, it occured to me that a few comments on some more of the wines from the Paulée might be in order. I was still on a spiritual high from the ’47 Moose when I posted last…
It was very educational to have the 2000 DRC Richebourg, La Tâche and Roumier Musigny side by side – they were all lovely, to be sure, but the Roumier had extra dimensions, more elegance, better length, and blew the other two away on this day. Less than one barrel made, but I was happy to sacrifice one in the name of science, of course…
As for the whites – the 1918 Meursault Goutte d’Or from Grossweiler was amazingly fresh and alive – I mean there was still fruit! I was sitting across from my crazy German friend Dieter and we toasted the end of WW1 with that one. Out of all the other whites, the one that really stood out was the ’93 Drouhin Clos des Mouches blanc in Mag – wow! Amazingly complex on the nose and in the mouth, and a kaleidescope of swirling flavors and aromas that never seemed to end. We were all blown away at my end of the table.
Pretty much everything was interesting throughout the day, but a few more deserve special notice. The 1938 Clos des Lambrays generously shared by Allen Meadows was rockin’pretty strong, as was the ’47 Richebourg from Grivelet and the ’47 Chambertin from Grafe/Drouhin. The 1923 Clos Vougeot from Bouchard also had a lot going on, but it was trumped by the ’49 Clos des Mouches from Drouhin – my notes simply say “superb!”. Not a bad day, indeed…
I wrapped up this trip with a great tasting at JJ Confuron yesterday, and I was thrilled with the 2006s there. Alain Meunier was a joy to spend some time with as always. The 2006s are really strong across the board at all of our producers, and I imagine they’re going to get some very good press – which is pretty amazing coming on the heels of the 2005s. I hope people aren’t drinking the 2005s too soon, as many are closing down, and most won’t be at their best for many years to come. I recommend drinking your 2000s, 2002s, 2004s, and the upcoming 2006s and 2007s before you get to the ’05s. Your patience will be rewarded…
