Tuesday lunch in Beaune
It is so rare in our world these days for reality to actually exceed one’s expectations. My expectations for the Paulée in Beaune every year are impossibly high, yet the event manages to blow me away every time.
Lunch was again this year prepared by Michelin 3-star chef Jacques Lameloise from Lameloise in Chagny. It was quite simply superb – most notably his preparation of foie gras and duck breast, the scallops with truffles and potato purée, and the grilled venison dish was nearly orgasmic.
In attendance as far as vignerons were the Mugneret sisters from Mugneret-Gibourg, Jean-Nicolas Meo from Meo-Camuzet, Louis Liger-Belair, Jean-Luc Pepin from de Vogüé, Louis-Fabrice Latour, Dominique Lafon, François de Nicolai from Chandon de Briailles, and of course our hostess Véronique Drouhin. Burghound Allen Meadows and a group of serious Burg-geeks rounded out the room of 50 for a nice little 7-hour lunch.
A partial view of the line-up of bottles for the Paulée
Oh yes, there were some wines. In the order they crossed my table –
The Whites
2004 Montrachet – Drouhin
1996 Puligny Clavaillons – Dom. Leflaive
1972 Chassagne Morgeot – Ramonet-Prudhomme
1995 Chevalier Montrachet – Dom. Leflaive
1976 Vosne-Romanée Pinot Blanc – Meo-Camuzet
2000 Meursault Bouches-Chères – Roulot
1971 Puligny Combottes – Ampeau
1992 Chevalier Montrachet – Latour
1995 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet – Dom. Leflaive
1993 Meursault En la Barre – Jobard
2005 Meursault Charmes – Colin-Morey
1970 Chassagne Morgeot – Ramonet-Prudhomme
1949 Clos des Mouches – Drouhin
1992 Chassagne Ruchottes – Ramonet
1982 Montrachet – DRC
2003 Montrachet – Amiot
1992 Montrachet – Drouhin
1999 Montrachet – Drouhin
1993 Montrachet – Ramonet
1983 Montrachet – Lafon
1989 Montrachet – Remoissenet
1996 Montrachet – Lafon
1992 Meursault Genevrières – Lafon
1989 Corton – Chandon de Briailles
1989 Chavalier Montrachet – Geo. Deleger
Somewhere around the time the ’82 Montrachet came by, Jean-Nicolas Meo announced softly, in his heavily accented English – “I am starting to be happy!”
A view down our table in the ancient Drouhin cellars
And then a few Reds…
2000 Musigny – Mugnier
1988 Griotte Chambertin – Ponsot
2000 Nuits-St. Georges Murgiers – Meo-Camuzet
1976 Chapelle Chambertin – Trapet
1972 Echezeaux – Mugneret-Gibourg
1993 Musigny – de Vogüé
1996 Corton Bressandes – Prince de Merode
2000 Chambolle-Musigny 1er – de Vogüé
2000 Clos St. Jacques – Rousseau
1993 Amoureuses – Mugnier
1990 Corton – producer unknown
1996 Chambertin – Bretagna
1999 Clos de la Roche – Ponsot
1978 Bonnes Mares – de Vogüé
1990 Griotte Chambertin – Ponsot
1990 Chambertin – Rousseau
1987 Chambertin – Bourée Fils
1993 Echezeaux – Henri Jayer
1999 Corton Dr. Peste – Hospices de Beaune
1999 Vosne-Romanée Brulées – Meo-Camuzet
1966 Romanée-St. Vivant – Marey-Monge/DRC
1966 Corton – LeRoy
1993 Nuits-St. Georges – Henri Jayer
1983 La Tâche – DRC
1971 Bonnes Mares – de Vogüé
1988 Chambolle Fueselottes – Mugneret-Gibourg
1964 Clos Vougeot – Mugneret
1937 Richebourg – DRC
1974 Musigny – de Vogüé
1985 Au dessus de Malconsorts – Noblet-André
1952 Echezeaux – Emile Mugneret
1947 Bonnes Mares – de Vogüé
1942 Latricières Chambertin – no producer indicated
1961 Puligny-Montrachet Rouge – Chartron
1937 DRC Richebourg
Some amazing rarities here. The ’42 Latricières – there was very little wine produced that year, as they were still in the middle of the war and all of the men were away. This was probably made by a group of women and girls in the village, but from whose property is not known. I have never seen a Puligny Rouge – the ’61 was actually quite nice. The ’85 Au dessus de Malconsorts was then a village parcel, is now classified 1er Cru, and was made by the short-lived domaine belonging to M. Noblet (winemaker for DRC) and his wife. Also notable for rarity was the ’76 Pinot Blanc from Vosne-Romanée by Meo-Camuzet – all the blanc has long ago been pulled out there, but this wine was rockin’! Nose of petrol like a reisling, and a complex and rich palate like an old Meursault. Great stuff!
Jordan, Jason, François et Véronique
My wines of the day were the ’66 RSV, the ’64 Echezeaux, and the ’49 Clos des Mouches – but many many more were right up there. What an amazing afternoon!
This all ended at about 7:30pm – so of course being hungry and thirsty a bunch of us headed to Ma Cuisine for dinner and Champagne. A light meal of Foie Gras and duck breast, washed down by a nice bottle of Selosses Brut, and we finally called it a day.
Needless to say, it’s on my calendar already for next year. Huge thanks and deep appreciation to Véronique Drouhin for putting it all together, and to everyone who came and shared these magnificent wines – I am honored to be among you all.
A piece of history in every bottle...
