Domaine Taupenot-Merme — Morey-St. Denis

At nearly 30 acres, Domaine Taupenot-Merme is a rather large estate by Burgundian standards. The roots of the family estate go back to the 1760, and today's superb vineyard holdings in Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St. Denis and Chambolle Musigny were united by the marriage of two winemaking families three generations ago. Now in the hands of 41 year-old Romain Taupenot and his sister Virginie, 36, they are the 7th generation to continue the family tradition. Parcels include significant pieces of both Charmes Chambertin & Mazoyères Chambertin and a great line-up of 1er crus including Combe d'Orveau in Chambolle-Musigny. All farming is organic and the wine style here is one of elegance and purity, with a base of finesse rather than power. The wines are superb with food, and are excellent values.

Romain & Jean Taupenot

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2006 Gevrey-Chambertin $46 >>

"an earthy combination of red and blue fruit notes as well as underbrush and Gevrey sauvage character that persists on the supple and very fresh flavors that possess good finishing drive and energy. Qualitatively, as villages Gevrey goes, this delivers the goods and is certainly worth a look. (87-89)/2012+"

2006 Chambolle-Musigny $46 >>

"elegant and refined with airy and really pretty red pinot fruit aromas complementing the detailed, fresh and admirably pure barely middle weight flavors that are delicious, balanced and offer impeccably integration of the structure. The only aspect holding this back from ascending to the next level is the absence of a bit more depth but this is a classic Chambolle in every other respect. (86-89)/2010+"

2006 Morey St.-Denis $46 >>

"A more deeply pitched nose of red and blue berry fruit nuanced by subtle hints of earth and underbrush merges into textured, sweet and much fuller-bodied flavors that are delicious and in contrast to the Chambolle, deliver a shade more depth on the solidly persistent finish. A very fine villages. (87-89)/2011+"

2006 Nuits-St. Georges — Les Prulières 1er Cru $80 >>

"Since this vineyard was purchased by the domaine several years ago, it has established itself as the consistent outperformer among their 1ers with its enveloping nose of spicy and earthy dark berry fruit liberally laced with Nuits animale notes where the latter is picked up by the rich, full, sweet and mouth coating flavors that are ripe and blessed with ample dry extract on the admirably lengthy finish. Recommended. (90-92)/2013+"

2006 Chambolle-Musigny - La Combe d'Orveau 1er Cru $95 >>

"(from 35+ year old vines). A very pretty and seductive blend of red and blue pinot fruit is nuanced by floral notes, particularly violets with very subtle background traces of spice, earth and anise that beautifully introduce the delicious, refined and textured yet utterly serious medium-bodied flavors underpinned by moderately firm tannins and lovely balance. This too is very Chambolle but with the requisite depth to really deliver. (88-91)/2012+"

2006 Gevrey-Chambertin - Bel Air 1er Cru $75 >>

"(a little known 1er that sits directly above Chambertin-Clos de Bèze made from vines planted in 1973). A very discreet touch of wood spice sets off equally high-toned but cooler red berry fruit aromas that possess only a dash of Gevrey earth that merge into pure, balanced and slightly more complex middle weight flavors that possess real finishing punch as this does a slow build from the sappy mid-palate to the long finale. This is definitely worth a look and recommended. (89-92)/2013+"

2006 Charmes Chambertin — Grand Cru $125 >>

"This is a clear step up in aromatic purity and elegance, which is saying something. A pure and complex nose that is both seductive and complete while dissolving into serious yet extremely pretty medium-bodied flavors that also coat the mouth with extract, which confers a real sense of volume and focused muscle. Lovely and very long. (90-93)/2014+"

2006 Mazoyères Chambertin — Grand Cru $125 >>

"As is virtually always the case, this is bigger and more robust though at the price of less elegance with a much earthier and more obviously sauvage character on the red and dark berry fruit nose that introduces rich, full and more serious big-bodied flavors underpinned by more robust and rustic tannins though not any more depth or length. A qualitative choice but note that the respective characters are miles apart. (90-93)/2014+"