The Great Wines of Burgundy

Click here to download our order form.

The Famous cross overlooking Romanée-Conti

 

The Burgundy region of France has been producing what are widely considered to be the world’s finest Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays for nearly a thousand years. Burgundy is a relatively small area (only about 13,500 acres of vines in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, as opposed to Bordeaux’s 235,000 acres or California’s 515,000.) Oregon is nearly identical in size to Burgundy with about 13,700 vineyard acres planted.

As in Oregon, most of the winegrowers and producers in Burgundy are small, family operations. The average estate size is about 18 acres – enough to produce about 2,500 cases of wine each year. Those 18 acres are often split into 10 or more tiny parcels of vineyards scattered around several different vineyards and villages – so production of each wine is often only a few hundred cases or less.

 

The vineyards of Puligny-Montrachet

There are about 3,000 growers/producers in Burgundy now, and only roughly 350 of them export to the United States. Some of the producers in the Scott Paul Selections Portfolio are being presented in the U.S. for the first time. Others are established stars. The common denominator is this: Each of our producers is focused solely onquality. Nothing else really matters. Some farm their vineyards biodynamically, almost all are organic. Their methods, traditions, and villages vary, but in each case the goals are the same – the highest quality possible from the individual terroirs (the specific vineyards.)

As with the wines I produce under the Scott Paul label in Oregon, I believe Burgundian Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is at its best when it expresses grace, elegance, complexity of aromas & purity of flavors – and when it prizes these qualities over power, weight and heavy extraction. As we’ve come to learn from the Burgundians over the centuries, it all boils down to these essentials: old vines, low yields, micro-managed care in the vineyard, and the barest minimum of intervention in the winery. Our mission is that every producer and each wine we represent should be a shining example of the above.

BURGUNDY – The Basics

The legendary vineyards of Rmanée-Conti

While it can seem quite complicated, even perplexing at times, in reality Burgundy is fairly simple to decipher.

  • Red = Pinot Noir . If it’s a red wine from Burgundy, it is made from the Pinot Noir grape. (Beaujolais, while technically part of the Burgundy region, is truly a different world altogether. Beaujolais reds are made from the Gamay grape.)
  • White = Chardonnay . If it’s a white wine from Burgundy, it’s a Chardonnay. (again, there are minor exceptions you’ll rarely see – there’s a white grape known as Aligoté that produces some very inexpensive, lower-level wines – but it will not come into play in anything we’re discussing here.)

Unlike America, France has legal classifications for their wines. In Burgundy, the actual vineyards themselves, rather than the producer or wines, are given a level of classification. There are four levels:

  • Grand Cru – The best of the best. There are 30 Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, accounting for less than 2% of all Burgundy wine production. Grand Cru wines mention on the label only the name of the vineyard – as in “Montrachet” or “Musigny” – the name of the village is not deemed necessary in the case of these great vineyards.
  • Premier Cru – One notch below the Grand Crus – there are hundreds at this level, and the quality varies widely. The best Premiers rival the Grand Crus, the lesser ones seem barely deserving of the ranking. These makeup about 10% of total production. A Premier Cru wine will mention the name of the village and the vineyard on the label, as in “Pommard-Rugiens” or “Vosne-Romanée – Les Suchots”, and will also nearly always bear the mark “Premier Cru” or “1er Cru”.
  • Village – Grapes for a village wine come from one or many vineyards surrounding a specific Burgundian village, for example Vosne-Romanée or Puligny-Montrachet. These are classified below the 1er Cru level, but can often be lovely wines and great values. Village wines are about 40% of the total pie. The label will simply state the name of the village (although in some cases the name of a specific vineyard will also be mentioned, even though it is not of Premier Cru status.)
  • Regional ( Bourgogne) – Roughly half of all Burgundy vineyards are classified at the regional level. In the hands of dedicated and talented producers these can be lovely wines. In the hands of others they can be thin, weedy, and rather unpleasant. These wines are labeled as Bourgone Rouge or Bourgogne Blanc, or Bourgogne Pinot Noir or Bourgogne Chardonnay.

The Grand Cru vineyard of Musigny

Most of the vineyards in Burgundy are owned by multiple owners – as many as 70 or 80 in some cases. (In the rare cases that a single producer owns the entirety of a specific vineyard, this is designated as a “Monopole.”) This means that each winery may own only a few rows of the vineyard, and will make only a few barrels of that specific wine each year (but they are likely to own small pieces of several other vineyards as well.) So, not all wines from the same vineyard are created equal. The quality can vary widely from producer to producer. In Burgundy, the most important consideration is in fact the producer. Get to know the styles of different producers, and zero in on the ones you like best. They will likely give you the most enjoyment year in and year out regardless of the classification level.

Click here to download our order form.

THE PRODUCERS

Cote de Nuits

Domaine René Leclerc – Gevrey-Chambertin

René Leclerc, Scott Wright,
& François Leclerc in Gevrey

Gevrey-Chambertin Map
Purple: Gevrey-Chambertin
Orange: Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru
Light Green: Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru


The always outspoken and iconoclastic René Leclerc – a true character, flowing white mane and all - took over his half of the family domaine in 1976, and now exploits 29 acres with his son François. The vines average 50-80 years old. Their wines are the epitome of grace and elegance, understated yet very concentrated and pure. The loveliest range of Gevreys I’ve ever had the pleasure to taste. In 2005, as in 2003, they chose to use zero new oak, the 2004’s saw 15%-20%.


Domaine François Lamarche – Vosne Romanée

La Grand Rue – a Monopole
of Domaine Lamarche

Domaine Lamarche’s parcel of
Clos Vougeot


Flagey-Echézeaux Map
Purple: Echézeaux & Grands Echézeaux
Orange: Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru
Light Green: Vosne-Romanée

Vosne-Romanée Map
Purple: Vosne-Romanée Grand Cru
Orange: Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru
Light Green: Vosne-Romanée
Proprietors of formidable holdings in Vosne-Romanée (four 1er Crus and four Grand Crus), including the Grand Cru Monopole “La Grande Rue”. These wines are dense and well balanced, and bottled without fining or filtration. François Lamarche has been making significant improvements each vintage, fine tuning his vines and cellar techniques. These wines don’t smack you over the head – they sneak up on you and THEN they blow you away.

Côte de Beaune

Domaine Huber-Verdereau – Volnay

The spirited and dashing Thiébault Huber farms his 16 acres completely biodynamically. A former sommelier, Thiébault at 36 is now crafting some of the most exciting wines to come out of the Côte de Beaune. Many are picking him to be Burgundy’s next break-out star. His wines are ours exclusively for the U.S.

“The young and very talented Thiébault Huber, who is something of a protégé of Jean-Pierre Charlot (of Domaine Jospeh Voillot), is from Alsace and is a former sommelier. 1994 was his first harvest in Burgundy as he started with only 3 ha but now exploits 6.5 in 11 different appellations. He started farming biodynamically in 2002 and since 2005, he’s converted 100% of his vineyards to this philosophy. The Huber-Verdereau wines are by far the most interesting discovery I made on this trip and I highly recommend them to you. As the scores and comments suggest, they’re well worth investigating.” Allen Meadows, Burghound.com – April 2006

Thiébault Huber & his wife Marielle, with mentor Jean-Pierre Charlot

Entrance to the Huber-Verdereau
cellars in Volnay


Volnay Map
Dark Pink: Volnay Premier Cru
Pink: Vonay

Domaine Pascal Bouley – Volnay

Pascale & Réyane Bouley

View across the vineyards below Volnay

Pascal and his wife Réyane run this 27 acre estate with style and grace, and it shows in their wines. Reperesenting the 6 th generation of the family, their young son Pierrick has now joined the team, beginning with the 2005 harvest. The vines are very old, the wines are pure Volnay. They age exceptionally well, revealing layers of aromas and flavors that are intoxicating and seductive.

Domaine Violot-Guillemard – Pommard

A true character in every sense of the word, Thierry Violot sports a wild, bushy, walrus mustache that belies the understated elegance in his luscious wines. Where most others find aggressive tannins, Thierry finds the finesse. You will not find Pommards like this at any other address – an exquisite balance between power and grace. Stunning wines that are ours exclusively for the U.S.

“I have been singing the praises of Thierry Violot for several vintages and the quality of his 2004s is so good that I once again offer my unqualified enthusiasm for the wines.” Allen Meadows – Burghound.com – April 2006

Thierry Violot in his cellar in Pommard


Pommard Map
Purple: Pommard Premier Cru
Orange: Pommard


Domaine Leroyer-Girardin – Pommard

Entrance to Domaine Girardin
in Pommard

Gates at the entrance to
Les Epenots in Pommard

We are proud to bring the wines of Madame Aleth Leroyer back into the U.S. – the last vintage she exported here was 1993. A previous importer reportedly pushed her to use more new oak – and she decided she’d rather stop exporting than change her ways. We love her wines just the way they are. Unadulterated, ripe and lush, these are the most feminine and juicy Pommards you are ever likely to taste. As far back as her family can be traced, they have been making wine in Pommard – too many generations to count. Average vine age here is 60+ years – the parcels of Epenots and Rugiens were planted in 1906! We are honored to represent these wines exclusively for America.

“I have long been an admirer and collector of the wines of Aleth Girardin since the 1990 vintage and bought quite a number of her stunning ‘93s. Her wines have been absent from the US market however for some years. This is the kind of domaine that will appeal greatly to Burghound readers, and I encourage you to take a close look. Allen Meadows, Burghound.com – April 2006


 

 


Domaine Buisson-Charles – Meursault


This tiny 12 acre domaine is run by Michel Buisson, with his daughter Catherine and son-in-law Patrick Essa, the 4 th generation to exploit these gorgeous holdings in Meursault. Vines are over 100 years old in some parcels. The wines are concentrated, classic, rich, and long. Production is miniscule – a scant two-to-three barrels of some of the 1er Crus in most years.

Monsieur Michel Buisson in his cellar
in Meursault

Meursault Map
Dark Pink: Volnay-Santenots (red wines)
                    Meursault Premier Cru (white wines)
Purple: Meursault Premier Cru
Pink: Meursault-Blagny (white wines)
          Blagny Premier Cru (red wines)
Tan: Meursault (red wines)
Orange: Volnay-Santenots (red wines)
               Meursault (white wines)
Light Tan: Meursault
Light Green:
Meursault (white wines)
                       Blagny (red wines)


Domaine Philippe Chavy – Puligny-Montrachet

The fruit from these beautifully situated vineyards was sold to the negociant Bouchard Père et Fils for many years. Upon the retirement of his father a few years back, young Philippe Chavy took back the fruit and started making the wines himself. He has really come into his own in the last two years, and the wines are racy, intense, and quite thrilling. We are proud to represent them exclusively for the U.S.

Puligny-Montrachet Map
Purple: Grands Cru
              Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru
Gold: Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru
           (white  wines)
          Blagny Premier Cru (red wines)
Tan: Puligny-Montrachet
Light Green:
Puligny-Montrachet
                       (white  wines), Blagny (red wines)

The wines are available for purchase by simply downloading
a current portfolio and order form. Click here.

The Scott Paul Selections portfolio of wines is also available for tasting and purchase
at our new Tasting Room & Retail shop in Carlton, Oregon
128 S. Pine St. (Rt. 47) – just across from the new Scott Paul Winery.





Mailing List | Wine & Merchandise | Vines & Wines
Philosophy | Newsletter | Recipes | Contact Us | Home